Why don't patterns fit like ready-to-wear? I wear a size 6 in ready-to-wear and refuse to believe I am a size 10 in patterns.

I've sewn for over 30 years with a size 12 pattern. Recently I bought a dress pattern that is a size 12 and it is huge! How is this possible?

Why are some jackets left unlined? How do I line my jacket and figure the yardage for lining?

How can I order a discontinued or discarded pattern?

How can I order pattern magazines, catalogs, videos, books, or current patterns?

Why do patterns cost so much?

Why don't patterns fit like ready-to-wear? I wear a size 6 in ready-to-wear and refuse to believe I am a size 10 in patterns.

Many people have trouble with fit because they can't break the "ready-to-wear" habit. What do we mean? It means you have to forget about what size you are in ready-to-wear, and reconcile yourself to the fact that your pattern size will be different. "I know I'm a size 10 so why can't I just buy a size 10 pattern and know it will fit?" You can't! Think about the last time you went shopping for ready-to-wear clothes. Did all the size 10 garments fit you exactly the say way? We're sure they didn't.

Simply put, when it comes to size, there is no consistency among ready-to-wear manufacturers. Our patterns, however, are consistent. We always use the same basic body measurements to draft the corresponding pattern size, regardless of the fashion style or designer logo that appears on the pattern. This means that once you have determined your correct pattern size and know what pattern adjustments you need, making the necessary changes on the pattern tissue becomes an automatic and routine part of your sewing. For more detailed information on how to determine your correct pattern size see the article Ready-to-Wear vs. Pattern Sizes here in our Tech Center.

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I've sewn for over 30 years with a size 12 pattern. Recently I bought a dress pattern that is a size 12 and it is huge! How is this possible?

You probably selected a style that was described as very loose-fitting with 8" (20.5cm) of "Ease". Ease is the amount of "space" in a garment beyond the body measurements. The specific amount of ease will vary from style to style, depending on the silhouette the designer intends the garment to have. Close-fitting, Fitted, Semi-fitted, Loose-Fitting, and Very Loose-Fitting are terms you'll find in the garment descriptions on the back of our pattern envelopes. They are our standards for fit and are the terms that tell you exactly what to anticipate when it comes to fitting. Each term indicates a general amount of wearing ease and design ease that is built into the pattern. See our Ease Chart in the back of our catalog or here in the Tech Center. It will give you the ease amounts for each of our fitting descriptions.

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Why are some jackets left unlined? How do I line my jacket and figure the yardage for lining?

Our merchandisers look at the ready-to-wear market for the most popular and up-to-the-minute fashions for our designers to translate into patterns. We also purchase garments from established designers (like Maggy London and Muse) with the rights to turn these garments into patterns for home sewers. If the jacket we buy from a designer is unlined, then we are bound by contract to follow the designer's original garment and make our pattern unlined. Of course, you can line your jacket even if our pattern doesn't call for lining. Below are some very basic instructions on how you can do this.

The best way to determine how much lining fabric to buy is to use the same yardage amount as the jacket. Using this method, you will actually be buying more lining fabric than you will need. For a more accurate yardage, you can do a rough layout with the pattern pieces you will using for the lining (as described below).

1. The jacket pattern pieces you will use for the lining are: Front, Back, Sleeves, and Front and Back Neck Facings. If the style has princess seams, be sure to include the Side Front and Side Back.
   
   
2. Prepare the pattern in the following manner.
   
   
   • Pin the Front and Back over the corresponding Front and the Back Facing pieces (A).
     
     
   • Draw the following new cutting lines on your pattern pieces: On the Front pattern piece, draw a line 1-1/4" (3.2cm) past the Front Facing edge, as shown,and another line across the bottom 5/8" (1.5cm) below the hemline. On the Sleeves pattern piece, draw a line across the bottom, 5/8" (1.5cm) below the hemline. On the Back pattern piece draw a line across the bottom, 5/8" (1.5cm) below the hemline; another line 1-1/4" (3.2cm) past the facing edge, and a third line 1/2" (1.3cm) outside the center back line, from the top to the bottom edge. This new third line on the Back pattern piece will be a fold line (not a cutting line). (B)
     
     
   • Lay out the pattern pieces following the jacket layout. Remember that Back lining piece must be cut on a fold.
     
     
   • Assemble the lining in the same manner as the jacket, then staystitch the lining neck and front edges on the seamline. Make a pleat in the center back by stitching (down at the top and up from the bottom) 1/2" (1.3cm) away from the center back fold for about 2" (5cm) and backstitch. Press along the length of the fold, then along the fold created by the stitching, creating an ease pleat. With right sides together, machine-sew the lining to the facings. With wrong sides together, loosely hand-sew the sleeve seam allowances of the lining and the jacket together with a double strand of thread. Matching the raw edges of the lining and hem, slipstitch the lining to the jacket hem and the sleeve hem, creating an ease pleat about 5/8" (1.5cm) deep.
     
     

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How can I order a discontinued or discarded pattern?

As a service to our customers, we stock a limited supply of discontinued patterns. This select group of patterns may not include all styles and sizes requested; however we will try to fill your discontinued pattern orders. To order, simply go to the Shopping section on this web site or call 1-800-766-3619. (Please have style# and sizes ready.)

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How can I order pattern magazines, catalogs, videos, books, or current patterns?

To order, simply go to the Shopping section on this web site or call 1-800-766-3619.

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Why do patterns cost so much?

It takes approximately 60 people to produce a pattern. Starting with merchandisers who shop the market for the newest looks, to designers, patternmakers, dressmakers, instruction writers, and people to create the cutting layouts, yardage and notions requirements, not to mention the production, printing and marketing costs of creating the catalogs and magazines which sell the patterns, and the expense of shipping to the stores worldwide; manufacturing a pattern is a complicated process with many checkpoints along the way. Every year manufacturing costs go up. There are many costs that we have no control over, however we make every effort to keep our production costs down so that we can keep the cost of our patterns as low as possible.

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